9/17/2023 0 Comments Atc guide 8.5mm ropePersonally, I am glad I have this device because I trust its locking capabilities when leading and helps me feel more comfortable with falling on thin half ropes, but it isn't a great device for many other reasons. The reverso is much smoother and better for this job. You can really get pumped after belaying someone on guide mode on a relatively long route. It does lock when you take falls on the device, I have done it enough to trust its locking capabilities.ġ.Abseiling (hard to explain why it doesn't work, but bulky and hard to control is definitely part of it) And you still have to add a prusik! It is not a hands-free device and wont fully lock when abseiling down any sizeable cliff. (Novices to half ropes find it easier to work with.)Ģ. It does its job really well, especially because it works more like a gri gri when feeding rope and thus a bit easier giving rope on individual strands. Belaying someone on trad with nice half ropes. Right now we use it for lead belaying and take a ATC guide along for guide mode and abseils.ġ. But If it stops a catastrophic trad fall from slipping through my fingers, I feel the effort would be worth it. Summary, I don't trust it and clearly, I should go out and test it a bit more. I see the other commenters say they don't use a prussic with it, I don't actually trust it enough. Particularly hard to manage the device if you extend it with a sling as it starts twisting and you run out of hands. Friction, size.Ībseiling: Its a struggle to get the rope to feed in nicely, typically tangles and comes in from the side and once nearly got it jammed in the middle of fountains ledge. Guide mode: Much more of a struggle than the BD. Assisted break takes some pressure of the belay though. Bought the smart alpine to add a bit of safety to trad falls last year because I am not confident it will be easy to catch a large fall on 8mm mammut twins with the BD ATC Guide.Įxperience so far (No big falls or having to release a second yet, just 30 or so trad pitches with my 8mm's).įalling: I found it actually doesn't lock too well with short, slow, small falls and I still want to test it a bit with proper falls before I can really say.īelaying: Bit more clumsy than BD to pay out and manage rope, locks up a bit and needs some getting used to.
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